How To Plant Strawberries In The Ground

Introduction to Growing Strawberries in the Ground

Cultivating strawberries in your home garden offers the unparalleled delight of fresh, flavorful fruit, far surpassing the taste of store-bought alternatives. Beyond their delicious appeal, strawberries are a rewarding crop to grow, providing a continuous harvest over several weeks or even months, depending on the variety chosen. While various methods exist for strawberry cultivation, planting them directly in the ground is a traditional and highly effective approach, especially for gardeners aiming for larger yields and a naturalized growth pattern.

Ground planting allows strawberry plants to spread naturally through runners, establishing a productive patch that can thrive for several years with proper care. This method often leads to more robust plants, as their root systems have ample space to expand and draw nutrients from a larger soil volume, benefiting from more stable soil temperatures and moisture levels compared to container planting. It also simplifies the scaling of your strawberry operation, making it easier to expand your patch year after year.

This comprehensive guide will walk you through every essential step of planting strawberries in the ground, from selecting the ideal location and preparing the soil to ongoing maintenance and harvesting. By following these professional recommendations, you can establish a healthy, prolific strawberry patch that will consistently reward you with an abundance of sweet, juicy berries.

Choosing the Right Location and Preparing the Soil

Successful strawberry cultivation begins with meticulous site selection and thorough soil preparation. These foundational steps are critical for ensuring healthy plant growth and abundant fruit production.

Site Selection for Optimal Growth

Strawberries thrive in locations that receive ample sunlight. A minimum of six to eight hours of direct sunlight per day is essential for robust plant development and the best fruit yield and flavor. Less light will result in leggy plants, smaller berries, and reduced sweetness.

Beyond sunlight, consider air circulation. A site with good air flow helps to dry foliage quickly after rain or irrigation, significantly reducing the risk of fungal diseases. However, avoid areas prone to strong, persistent winds, which can damage plants, dry out the soil excessively, and interfere with pollination. A gentle slope can also be beneficial, providing natural air and water drainage.

Accessibility is another practical consideration. Choose a spot that is easily accessible for planting, watering, weeding, and, most importantly, harvesting. Having your strawberry patch conveniently located will encourage regular attention, leading to better overall plant health and productivity.

Understanding Strawberry Soil Requirements

Strawberries prefer a well-draining, loamy soil that is rich in organic matter. Avoid heavy clay soils, which can become waterlogged and lead to root rot, or excessively sandy soils that drain too quickly and struggle to retain nutrients and moisture.

The ideal soil pH for strawberries is slightly acidic, ranging from 5.5 to 6.8. A soil test is highly recommended before planting to determine your current soil pH and nutrient levels. This allows you to make precise amendments rather than guessing. Soil testing kits are readily available from garden centers or through your local agricultural extension office.

Organic matter is paramount for strawberry success. It improves soil structure, enhances drainage in heavy soils, increases water retention in sandy soils, and provides a slow release of essential nutrients. Materials such as well-rotted compost, aged manure, leaf mold, or peat moss are excellent additions.

Detailed Soil Preparation Steps

Once you’ve identified your ideal site, proper soil preparation is the next crucial step. Begin by clearing the area of all weeds, especially perennial weeds, as they will compete aggressively with young strawberry plants for resources. Consider solarization or a thorough manual weeding process.

Next, cultivate the soil to a depth of at least 12 to 18 inches. This can be done with a spade, garden fork, or a rototiller. Deep cultivation allows for extensive root development and ensures that organic amendments are thoroughly incorporated.

Incorporate a generous amount of organic matter into the cultivated soil. Aim for a 2-4 inch layer of compost or aged manure spread over the surface and then worked into the top foot of soil. If your soil test indicated a need to adjust pH, now is the time to do so. To raise pH, incorporate agricultural lime; to lower it, use elemental sulfur or peat moss. These amendments should ideally be worked into the soil several months before planting to allow them sufficient time to take effect.

If your site has persistently poor drainage, consider planting your strawberries in raised beds. Raised beds offer excellent drainage control, allow for precise soil amendment, and warm up earlier in spring, which can be beneficial for early growth. Construct beds at least 8-12 inches high and fill them with a custom blend of well-draining, nutrient-rich soil.

Selecting Strawberry Varieties

Choosing the right strawberry variety is fundamental to meeting your gardening goals, whether you desire a massive harvest for preserves or a steady supply for fresh eating. Strawberry plants are generally categorized into three main types based on their fruiting habits.

Understanding Strawberry Types

June-bearing Strawberries: These are the most traditional type, renowned for producing a single, prolific crop of large, sweet berries over a two to three-week period, typically in late spring or early summer (hence “June-bearing”). They are ideal for gardeners who want to harvest a significant quantity of fruit at once for canning, freezing, or making jams. June-bearers produce numerous runners, which can be used to expand your patch. Common varieties include ‘Honeoye’, ‘Allstar’, ‘Earliglow’, and ‘Chandler’.
Everbearing Strawberries: As their name suggests, everbearing varieties produce two to three smaller crops per season. You can expect a flush of berries in late spring, another in mid-summer, and a final, smaller harvest in early fall, provided conditions are favorable. The individual berries are often smaller than those of June-bearers. Everbearing types produce fewer runners than June-bearing varieties, making them suitable for smaller gardens or hill systems where runner removal is practiced. Popular everbearing varieties include ‘Ozark Beauty’ and ‘Quinault’.
Day-neutral Strawberries: These varieties are distinct from everbearing in that their fruiting is not dependent on day length but rather on temperature. They produce fruit continuously throughout the growing season as long as temperatures remain moderate (typically between 35°F and 85°F). Day-neutrals typically produce smaller berries but offer the advantage of a consistent supply of fresh fruit from spring until the first hard frost. They produce very few runners, making them well-suited for intensive planting systems. Examples include ‘Tristar’, ‘Albion’, and ‘Seascape’.

Choosing for Your Climate and Needs

When selecting varieties, consider your local climate and hardiness zone. Some varieties are more cold-hardy, while others tolerate heat better. Consult your local extension office or a reputable nursery for recommendations on varieties that perform well in your specific region.

Your personal preferences and intended use for the strawberries should also guide your choice. If you aim for a large harvest for preservation, June-bearing types are the clear choice. If you prefer a continuous supply of fresh berries for eating throughout the season, everbearing or day-neutral varieties would be more appropriate.

Finally, look for varieties that offer disease resistance. This can significantly reduce the need for interventions and contribute to a healthier, more productive patch. Information on disease resistance is usually available from plant suppliers.

Sourcing and Handling Strawberry Plants

Once you’ve prepared your site and chosen your varieties, the next step is acquiring healthy strawberry plants. The quality of your starting material greatly influences the success of your garden.

Types of Plants Available

Bare-root Plants: These are dormant plants, typically shipped without soil, and are the most common and economical option, especially for large plantings. Bare-root plants usually arrive as small crowns with roots and no leaves (or very few). They are generally shipped in early spring, timed for optimal planting in most regions.
Potted Plants: These are actively growing plants, often sold in small pots or trays. Potted plants experience less transplant shock because their root systems remain undisturbed. They can be planted over a longer season but are generally more expensive per plant than bare-root options.
Runners from Existing Plants: If you or a friend already have a healthy strawberry patch, you can propagate new plants from runners. Runners are horizontal stems that emerge from the mother plant and produce new plantlets. These can be rooted in small pots or directly into the ground once they have developed a few leaves and roots. Ensure the parent plants are disease-free.

Inspecting and Storing Plants Before Planting

Regardless of the type you purchase, always inspect your strawberry plants upon arrival. For bare-root plants, look for a healthy, extensive root system that appears moist and pliable, not dry or brittle. The crown should be firm and green or light brown, not mushy or discolored. For potted plants, check for vigorous green foliage, no signs of wilting or discoloration, and a root system that is not overly root-bound or circling the pot excessively.

If you cannot plant immediately, proper temporary storage is crucial. Bare-root plants should be kept cool and moist. You can place them in their original packaging in the refrigerator for a few days, or “heel them in” by temporarily burying their roots in a trench of moist soil in a shady spot. Ensure their roots do not dry out. Potted plants can be kept in a sheltered, well-lit location, watered as needed, until planting day. Aim to plant as soon as possible after receiving your plants to minimize stress.

Before planting bare-root strawberries, it is beneficial to soak their roots in a bucket of water for about 30 minutes to an hour. This rehydrates them and helps them recover from shipping stress, giving them a better start in the ground.

The Planting Process: Step-by-Step Guide

Proper planting technique is paramount for the establishment and long-term health of your strawberry plants. Pay close attention to timing, spacing, and especially the critical planting depth.

Best Time to Plant Strawberries

The optimal time to plant bare-root strawberries in most temperate climates is in early spring, as soon as the ground can be worked and after the danger of severe frost has passed. Planting early allows the plants to establish a strong root system before the heat of summer arrives. In milder climates, or with potted plants, planting can also occur in late summer or early fall, giving plants time to establish before winter dormancy.

Preparing the Immediate Planting Area

On planting day, ensure your prepared soil bed is free of any new weeds that may have emerged. Rake the surface smooth, and if the soil is dry, give it a light watering a day before planting to ensure it is moist but not waterlogged.

Understanding Planting Systems and Spacing

The planting system you choose will largely depend on the strawberry type and your management goals:

Matted Row System: This is the most common system for June-bearing strawberries. Plants are initially spaced 18 to 24 inches apart within rows, with rows spaced 3 to 4 feet apart. This system allows the mother plants to send out runners, which root and fill in the space between the original plants, forming a continuous “mat” or bed of strawberries. It’s excellent for maximizing yield for processing.
Hill System: Primarily used for everbearing and day-neutral varieties, which produce fewer runners and are managed to maximize fruit production on the mother plant. Plants are spaced more closely, typically 12 to 18 inches apart, in rows 2 to 3 feet apart. In this system, all runners are consistently removed to direct the plant’s energy into fruit development on the main crown.
Spaced Plant System: A variation of the matted row, where runners are selectively allowed to root at specific intervals (e.g., 6-8 inches apart) to create a more organized and less crowded bed. This system balances yield with plant health and ease of management.

Regardless of the system, mark your desired spacing with a measuring tape or string line before you begin digging to ensure even distribution.

The Critical Planting Depth

Achieving the correct planting depth is perhaps the single most important factor in successful strawberry establishment. The crown — the point where the roots meet the stem and leaves emerge — must be planted precisely at soil level.

Too Deep: If the crown is buried, it will likely rot, leading to plant death.
Too Shallow: If the crown or roots are exposed, the plant will dry out and fail to establish.

To plant, dig a hole large enough to accommodate the roots spread naturally, without bending or circling. Create a small mound of soil in the center of the hole. Place the plant on this mound, spreading the roots down and around it. Carefully backfill the hole with prepared soil, ensuring the crown is exactly at the surface. Gently firm the soil around the roots to remove any air pockets.

Initial Watering After Planting

Immediately after planting all your strawberries, give the entire area a thorough and deep watering. This settles the soil around the roots, eliminating any remaining air pockets and providing essential moisture for the plants to begin establishing themselves. Continue to monitor soil moisture closely in the days and weeks following planting, ensuring the soil remains consistently moist but not waterlogged.

Initial Care After Planting

The first few weeks and months after planting are crucial for establishing a strong, healthy strawberry patch. Consistent care during this period will set the stage for future abundant harvests.

Consistent Watering Regimen

Newly planted strawberries require consistent moisture to develop a robust root system. The goal is to keep the soil evenly moist, but never soggy. Aim for approximately 1 inch of water per week, either from rainfall or supplemental irrigation. During hot, dry, or windy periods, you may need to water more frequently. Check the soil moisture by inserting a finger about an inch or two deep; if it feels dry, it’s time to water. Drip irrigation or soaker hoses are excellent methods as they deliver water directly to the root zone, minimizing water loss to evaporation and keeping foliage dry, which helps prevent fungal diseases.

Applying Beneficial Mulch

Mulching is an invaluable practice for strawberry cultivation. Apply a 2-4 inch layer of clean, weed-free straw (not hay, which contains weed seeds) or pine needles around your newly planted strawberries. Ensure the mulch doesn’t cover the crowns directly, as this can lead to rot.

The benefits of mulching are numerous:

Weed Suppression: Mulch acts as a physical barrier, significantly reducing weed growth and competition for water and nutrients.
Moisture Retention: It helps to conserve soil moisture by reducing evaporation, meaning less frequent watering is needed.
Temperature Regulation: Mulch insulates the soil, keeping it cooler in summer and warmer in winter, protecting roots from extreme temperature fluctuations.
Clean Fruit: As berries develop, mulch keeps them off the soil, preventing rot and keeping them clean.

Managing Flowers and Runners in the First Year

The way you manage flowers and runners in the first year depends on the type of strawberry you have planted:

For June-bearing Varieties: It is crucial to remove all flowers that appear in the first growing season. While it may seem counterintuitive to sacrifice an early harvest, pinching off these flowers directs the plant’s energy into developing a strong root system and producing healthy runners. This investment in the first year will result in significantly larger and more productive harvests in subsequent years. Allow runners to form and root to establish your matted row system.
For Everbearing and Day-neutral Varieties: For these types, remove flowers for the first 4 to 6 weeks after planting. This allows the plant to focus on root establishment. After this initial period, you can allow flowers to develop into fruit. For everbearing and day-neutral varieties, the focus is on the mother plant’s fruit production, so it is generally recommended to remove most or all runners as they appear. This directs the plant’s energy into producing more berries on the main plant rather than propagating new plants.

Early Pest and Disease Prevention

Regularly inspect your young strawberry plants for any signs of pests or diseases. Early detection is key to effective management. Maintain good air circulation around plants, and ensure proper watering practices to minimize favorable conditions for fungal diseases. Remove any yellowing, spotted, or otherwise diseased leaves promptly. Keep the area around your strawberry patch free of plant debris, which can harbor pests and disease spores. A healthy, well-maintained environment is your best defense against most common problems.

Ongoing Maintenance for Established Plants

Once your strawberry plants are established, ongoing care is essential to maintain their vigor, productivity, and longevity. This includes regular fertilization, watering, weeding, pest management, and the critical annual renovation process.

Strategic Fertilization Practices

Fertilizer requirements vary based on your soil test results and the age of your plants. In the first year, if your soil was well-amended and a soil test didn’t indicate deficiencies, a light application of a balanced fertilizer (e.g., 10-10-10) after new growth appears may be sufficient. Avoid excessive nitrogen, especially before fruiting, as it encourages leafy growth at the expense of fruit production.

For established beds:

June-bearing: The most crucial time to fertilize is immediately after the annual harvest and renovation (typically late summer). This allows the plants to build strength for the following year’s crop. Use a balanced granular fertilizer or a formulation slightly higher in phosphorus and potassium.
Everbearing and Day-neutral: These varieties benefit from lighter, more frequent feeding throughout the growing season, perhaps once every 4-6 weeks after initial establishment, using a balanced liquid feed or a slow-release granular product. Always follow package directions and water thoroughly after application.

Consistent Watering Throughout the Season

Established strawberry plants continue to require consistent moisture, especially during flowering, fruit development, and hot, dry periods. An average of 1 to 1.5 inches of water per week (from rain or irrigation) is generally adequate. In prolonged dry spells or sandy soils, you may need to water more frequently. Deep and infrequent watering is preferable to shallow, frequent watering, as it encourages deeper root growth. Overhead irrigation should be done in the morning to allow foliage to dry before evening, minimizing disease risk.

Vigilant Weeding and Runner Management

Weeds are constant competitors for water, nutrients, and sunlight. Regular weeding is vital. Hand-weeding is often the safest method, as strawberry roots are shallow and can be easily damaged by hoes or cultivators. Maintain your mulch layer to suppress weeds. Any weeds that do emerge should be removed promptly, especially before they go to seed.

Runner management also differs by variety:

June-bearing (Matted Row): Allow some runners to root and fill in the rows, but prevent overcrowding. Overcrowding reduces fruit size and overall yield due to competition. Aim for plants to be about 6-8 inches apart. Direct runners into desirable spots, or prune excess ones if the patch becomes too dense.
Everbearing/Day-neutral (Hill System): To maximize fruit production on the mother plant, remove all runners as soon as they appear throughout the growing season. This ensures all the plant’s energy is directed towards developing more berries.

Integrated Pest and Disease Management

Regular scouting for pests and diseases is crucial. Common pests include slugs, birds, strawberry weevils, aphids, and spider mites. Common diseases include powdery mildew, leaf spot, and gray mold (Botrytis).

Cultural Practices: Good air circulation, proper watering (avoiding overhead irrigation in the evening), sanitation (removing fallen leaves and diseased plant parts), and crop rotation (if establishing new beds) are your first lines of defense.
Physical Barriers: Netting can protect ripening berries from birds. Slug baits or traps can help manage slugs.
Organic Solutions: Horticultural oils or insecticidal soaps can be effective against aphids and spider mites. Fungicides approved for organic gardening may be used for severe disease outbreaks, but prevention is always preferred.

Annual Strawberry Bed Renovation (for June-bearing)

For June-bearing strawberry beds, an annual renovation after harvest (typically in late summer) is key to maintaining productivity and plant health. This process rejuvenates the patch:

Mow or Trim Foliage: Use a lawnmower set to a high setting (2-4 inches) or hedge shears to cut back all foliage to about 1-2 inches above the crown. This removes old, potentially diseased leaves and stimulates new growth. (Some gardeners prefer just trimming instead of mowing).
Narrow the Rows: Use a tiller or hoe to narrow the matted rows down to 6-12 inches wide. This removes older, less productive plants on the edges and encourages the growth of vigorous young plants.
Thin Plants: Within the remaining rows, thin the plants so they are approximately 4-6 inches apart. Remove weak, diseased, or overcrowded plants. Aim for robust young plants.
Fertilize and Water: Apply a balanced fertilizer (as described above) and water thoroughly.
Replenish Mulch: Add fresh straw mulch around the rejuvenated plants.

Everbearing and day-neutral beds do not typically undergo this extensive renovation. Instead, focus on consistent runner removal and removal of old, spent leaves.

Winterizing Strawberry Plants

In regions with cold winters, properly winterizing your strawberry plants is crucial for their survival and subsequent spring production. The primary goal is to protect the crowns from extreme cold and damaging freeze-thaw cycles that can heave plants out of the ground.

Timing for Winter Protection

Do not apply winter mulch too early. Wait until your strawberry plants have experienced several hard frosts and daytime temperatures consistently remain below freezing (typically late fall or early winter). The plants need to go completely dormant before being covered. If mulched too early, the plants may continue to grow under the mulch, depleting their energy reserves and making them more susceptible to disease.

Choosing the Right Mulch Material

The best material for winter protection is clean, weed-free straw. Straw provides excellent insulation, is lightweight, and allows for good air circulation, preventing moisture buildup and subsequent rot. Pine needles are another suitable option, offering similar protective qualities.

Avoid heavy materials like leaves that can compact and smother plants, or hay, which often contains weed seeds that will become a nuisance in the spring.

Applying Winter Mulch

Once the ground is consistently frozen (or after several hard frosts), apply a generous layer of mulch directly over the strawberry plants. Aim for a thickness of 4-6 inches. The mulch should completely cover the crowns and extend slightly beyond the edges of the bed. This thick blanket will insulate the crowns from severe cold and minimize temperature fluctuations, which are more damaging than sustained cold.

The mulch also prevents the soil from repeatedly freezing and thawing, which can cause “heaving” — where plants are pushed out of the ground, exposing their crowns and roots to damaging cold and drying winds.

Spring Removal of Winter Mulch

In early spring, as temperatures begin to rise and new green growth becomes visible under the mulch (or when leaves start to push through), it’s time to remove some of the winter covering. This usually happens when the danger of severe, prolonged frost has passed.

Gently rake back most of the heavy mulch layer, but do not remove it entirely. Leave a thin layer (approximately 1-2 inches) directly around and over the plants. This remaining mulch will continue to suppress weeds, conserve soil moisture, and keep the developing berries clean by preventing them from touching the soil. It also offers a slight degree of frost protection for early blooms, which can be vulnerable to late spring frosts. Removing the mulch too early exposes the plants to potential late frosts, while removing it too late can inhibit growth and lead to etiolated (stretched and pale) plants.

Troubleshooting Common Issues and Harvesting

Even with the best care, gardeners may encounter challenges. Understanding common problems and knowing how to properly harvest will ensure you enjoy the fruits of your labor.

Troubleshooting Common Strawberry Issues

Poor Fruiting: If your plants are healthy but not producing fruit, or very few berries, several factors could be at play:
- Lack of Sunlight: Ensure at least 6-8 hours of direct sun.
- Poor Pollination: Attract pollinators (bees) to your garden, or consider hand-pollination.
- Wrong Variety: Ensure the variety is suitable for your climate and is not in its first year (for June-bearing).
- Nutrient Imbalance: Too much nitrogen can lead to lush foliage but few berries. A soil test can confirm.
- Age of Plants: Strawberry plants become less productive after 3-5 years and may need renovation or replacement.
Small Berries: This can be a symptom of overcrowding (too many plants competing for resources), lack of consistent water, insufficient nutrients, or very old, unproductive plants. Thinning, proper watering, and fertilization can help.
Pest Damage:
- Slugs/Snails: Look for irregular holes in leaves and fruit, often with a slime trail. Use beer traps, slug baits, or hand-pick at night.
- Birds: Birds are notorious for pecking ripening berries. Netting is the most effective deterrent.
- Strawberry Weevil (Clippers): They cut off flower buds. Look for buds hanging by a thread. Control is difficult, but sanitation helps.
- Aphids/Spider Mites: Small insects that suck sap, causing distorted growth. Use insecticidal soap or a strong spray of water.
Disease Symptoms:
- Powdery Mildew: White, powdery growth on leaves. Improve air circulation, use resistant varieties, or apply organic fungicides.
- Leaf Spot/Blotch: Dark spots on leaves. Remove affected leaves, ensure good air flow, and avoid overhead watering in the evening.
- Root Rot: Wilting plants despite adequate moisture, often due to waterlogged soil. Improve drainage.
- Gray Mold (Botrytis): Fuzzy gray mold on ripening fruit, especially in humid conditions. Improve air circulation, keep fruit off soil with mulch, and remove affected fruit promptly.

When and How to Harvest Strawberries

Harvesting strawberries at the peak of ripeness is key to enjoying their full flavor and sweetness.

When to Harvest:
Strawberries are ready for harvest when they are fully colored (bright red for most varieties, or the specific color for your chosen variety) and have a glossy appearance. Don’t pick them when they are still partially white or pale pink, as they will not ripen further off the plant and will lack flavor. For the best taste, harvest in the morning after the dew has dried but before the heat of the day. This is when the berries are cool and firm.

How to Harvest:
Harvesting strawberries requires a gentle touch to avoid damaging the delicate fruit and the plant.

Gently grasp the stem directly above the berry.
Using your thumbnail or a small pair of snips, pinch or snip the stem about a quarter-inch above the berry, leaving a small piece of stem and the green calyx (the leafy cap) attached to the fruit.
Do not pull the berry directly from the plant, as this can damage the fruit, tear the plant, or encourage bruising.
Handle the harvested berries carefully to prevent bruising. Place them gently into a shallow container.

Storage:
Strawberries are perishable. For best results, do not wash them until just before you are ready to eat them, as moisture encourages mold growth. Store unwashed berries in a single layer in a shallow, breathable container in the refrigerator. They are best consumed within a few days. For longer storage, strawberries can be frozen, dried, or preserved as jams or jellies.